Review:: Lucy Cooper
www.sofiaecho.com |
To Book a Table Call
(+359/2) 980 65 77 |
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Upon opening the heavy wooden door of Peter The First, you are transported back in time to enter into the world of Imperial Russia. The wet, grey Sofia afternoon melts away into the red and gold glow from the brick basement walls lit by large, gold candelabras.Rich blue and yellow cloths cover the tables and chairs and stone cherubs smile down from on high. Brick arches provide privacy, while large gilt-edged mirrors create a feeling of space. A stone arch beneath a beaming cherub leads to another dining area in a side room, whose walls are a royal green and are hung with oil portraits of aristocratic types. | Slightly raised from the dining area are alcoves containing sumptuous-looking sofas where one can picture dignitaries discussing politics over cigars and cognac.The only thing missing to complete the tsar’s palace effect is a luscious carpet, which is unfortunately eschewed in favour of cold utilitarian tiles. This, however, does not spoil the overall impression of mock grandeur.
To Book a Table Call (+359/2) 980 65 77
We are greeted by a smartly waist-coated Russian waiter who takes our coats and leads us down to a table. The place is empty at this time of afternoon except for a distinguished-looking party of Russians who are talking intently as they quaff their wine. The waiter’s English is good and he is quick to recommend an expensive wine from a selection on display in a heavy, carved wooden dresser next to us. However, being on a slightly tight budget, we ask for a wine list and discover a wide range of wines, including some that are much easier on the pocket, while still being pleasant on the palate. Bulgarian wines start from between about 12 and 20 leva and there is a good selection of more pricey imports ranging all the way up to champagne at 500 leva for very extravagant occasions. While waiting for the wine we look through the comprehensive menus (in English) which feature classic Russian and Bulgarian cuisine. To start we opt for the traditional mayonnaise-lagged Russian salad, but for those preferring something less saturated in the white stuff there is a wide choice of salads and hors d’oeuvres including caviar at the classier end. There is the usual range of meats and seafood on offer for the main courses, but with more unusual and imaginative sounding sauces and accompaniments than the standard fare. These cost between nine and 19 leva.
To Book a Table Call (+359/2) 980 65 77
The waiter brings the wine, which is poured into massive balloon-like glasses, which is just as well as the wine is then taken back to the waiter’s station and brought back for top-ups just a touch too infrequently (though maybe on reflection this is due to our drinking too fast rather than the top-ups being too slow). We also find out from the waiter that there is live Russian music and dancing at the restaurant every night. When the main courses arrive they are impressive not only for the quality cuisine, but for their sheer gargantuan proportions. We are each presented with a giant platter, mine boasting a giant hunk of roast beef in a creamy carrot and onion sauce. The knife slides into the juicy meat with memories of Mum’s Sunday dinners or a really good pub roast, something that, frustratingly, can be almost impossible to find outside of England. My boyfriend is equally impressed with his lamb, which is cooked to tender perfection and served with rice, lettuce and peppers.
To Book a Table Call (+359/2) 980 65 77
After working our way through our massive meals (and another bottle of wine), there is no room left for dessert. However, the aristocratic ambience is obviously working it’s magic on my boyfriend, who goes out to buy cigars and then orders cognac. This proves to be a grand affair. A bottle, glass and lighter are wheeled to our table on their own velvet-covered trolley. The waiter pours a glass of cognac, lights it, swills the flaming liquid around the glass, then tips it out before pouring a fresh helping into the warm and potently fume-filled glass. A grand finish to a grand afternoon, which cost around a grand 90 leva including two bottles of wine, coffees and cognac. Peter I is a good choice when you’re looking to impress or just for something a bit different. |
